Pbus belay This class will cover the following topics: – Proper harness fitting – Tying in as a climber / Clipping in as a belayer / Safety & Partner Checks – PBUS / Lowering Techniques – Belay Zone / Belay Commands & Communication Jun 20, 2013 · It's a four step process that can be abbreviated as PBUS. If you’re already an experienced belayer, feel free to skip this step! Ace the belay test to show off your skills. Third step, sliding my right hand back to the belay Momentum instructs with and encourages use of the Pull-Break-Under-Slide (PBUS) belay method. PBUS is an acronym that stands for "pull, brake, under, slide. Taking a belay test at The Pad? Check out this handy dandy study guide (save a tree and print only if absolutely necessary, please). During this class we cover: Gym safety and orientation; Bouldering safety and best practice; Harnesses and harnessing; Petzl/AMGA PBUS belay technique; Usage of different belay devices Belay Test Outs – Walk-Ins. DeanElectron974. If you are an experienced climber and know the PLUS or PBUS belay method then we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. For a hip belay, rather than a friction-plate device, the older Slip-Slide-Slap belay method (Correct and incorrect slip-slap-slide belay technique) works well for managing the rope. True, hanging belays are a pain in the ass with PBUS. Have your dominant hand on the lower or brake end and your non-dominant hand or guide hand on the upper or climbers end. In that scenario, I use guide mode on an ATC to belay the second climber (no PBUS), and a leader is just going to deal with a little extra slack for a moment, climbing past high clip if they choose to high clip. " One attaches the GriGri on their harness as usual. The PAS is usually in the way, and you can't move. New and experienced climbers alike learn how to control the ropes and belay their climbing partner in the correct, up to date, industry recommended manner. Remember to lock your belay carabiner. Gyms (and guides) have adopted the PBUS as the preferred technique. Photo: Elliott Natz. Pull or take in the rope slack as the climber ascends the climbing wall. • Demonstrate pre-climbing checks and commands. Load your belay device. Now, it’s PBUS time. The PBUS method is widely endorsed as the most effective way to minimize misuse and prevent bad habits amongst new Belay device with cam-assisted blocking for learning, top roping, and intensive use: - For belaying both lead and top rope climbers - Optimized for top rope climbing with a lockable selector knob that allows you to choose top rope belay mode, making it easier to take up slack and providing a more comfortable belay Watch the video below and answer the questions related to a proper PBUS Belay. Perform the the PBUS belay method. Sportrock's Ultimate Guide to Top Rope Belaying will walk you through the process of top rope belaying using the PBUS method. This article covers belay with a tubular device. In the mid to late 1980s, tubular and plaquette style belay devices hit the market. Load the rope into your belay device at this point. If you already have experience, you may choose to opt out of a clinic and test to become belay qualified at anytime during open hours. Apr 20, 2022 · PBUS Pull, Brake, Under, Slide A universal rule to belaying is that your brake hand, which is palm down on the brake strand of the rope, should never come off the rope. This method has the transition zone up by the belayers head, not down by the waist. In my experience, even gyms that teach PBUS let tunnelling slide if you arent being a total idiot about it. The second step. How Risky or Not Risky is to Tunnel Brake Hand Up when you are taking Slack during Lead Belay?I have seen many arguing about this, so decided to do these exp In the mid to late 1980s, tubular and plaquette style belay devices hit the market. For the method: The common trick is to have two "belayers. University of Nevada, Las Vegas. Pull: One hand will be holding rope above the belay device and the other below, in the break position. Feb 22, 2020 · When attaching the belay device and carabiner to one’s harness, it’s important to ensure that the climber’s end of the rope (i. Then lift your brake strand and pull on it to draw that amount of slack through the belay device. • Catch simulated falls and demonstrate the proper lowering technique. pdf - Taking a belay test TECHNIQUE Pages 2. 95% of the people I climb with Jul 29, 2024 · Learning how to belay correctly is key in climbing. Each step of the test out must be performed with 100% accuracy. Upon Using these methods and the PBUS steps below, you can safely and comfortably belay somebody on a top rope. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket Press Copyright PLUS is a standardized belay method for top rope belaying. Those that have taken the belay clinic need to wait at least one day prior to taking the Belay Test. Being a good belayer means knowing your gear and talking well with your partner. What if I don’t pass the belay test? The Essential measures in learning how to top-rope belay comprise: Gearing up; Set-up; Communication; Technique . 161 of Freedom of the Hills, 8th ed. Top Rope tests will take approximately 5-10 minutes, and Lead tests will take approximately 20-30 minutes. Set up your belay device by putting the rope in it following the instructions. Part 1: Applying Top Rope Belaying to Lead Belaying We’ll be demonstrating the PBUS method of belaying. GEOL 102. Unlike the other ATC variety which have 2 rope slots, the ATC Sport only has 1 rope slot. Make sure there is minimal slack in the rope from the climber to your belay device. Grab the Whether you’re a newbie or a pro, learn the ropes with our belay clinic. 9/18/2023. The Belay Class covers: Pull Break Underhand Slide (PBUS) Belay Technique; Gri-Gri belay devices; Proper use and tie-ins of harnesses A climber rests on a belay rope in a gym surrounded by colorful holds. The belay technique to be used is very similar to the generic belay technique, but has a few specifics. The first step being to pull which is when I'm pulling up with my right hand and down my left left hand. The PBUS method naturally allows for the secondary bend in the brake strand and minimizes time spent above the device (See Image Below). How to Belay with a Grigri is one of the most important skills you should learn for climbing, even top-rope climbing. When you register, you can choose "No Belay Class. PBUS has been the industry standard for quite a while and it has been proven to be easier to learn and safer for beginners. In this video Julie Ellison, Climbing Maga We’ve got the scoop on what we’re looking for in order to pass your belay test with flying colors. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or p If you already know how to belay, including forming a proper double figure-eight knot with backup and the PBUS belay method (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide), you can take the test upon arrival and if you pass, you will be allowed to belay others immediately. Monday's from 6:00-9:00 pm. If you do not know how to belay you will need to take our Intro to Belay class. belay technique. The Black Diamond ATC Sport is another type of tubular aperture belay device. The two main belay device types are tubular and brake assist. I have learned two types of belay techniques: pull, brake, under, slide (PBUS) or slip-slap-slide. Slip-slap-slide is illustrated on p. This class will introduce and practice the introductory skills to correctly and efficiently lead climb and lead belay with a tube-style belay device. It can mean the difference between safety and danger. One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. Every bit of rope and gear matters. The top-roping belay technique commonly known as PBUS resonates with climbing instructors and mentors because it emphasizes the fundamental principles so distinctly. It is very safe because it does not allow to switch hands on the brake rope. PULL: Pull the climber strand towards the belay device with your guide hand. You will use the same PBUS belay technique for both the ATC and Grigri. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Dec 11, 2014 · Seattle Climbing will also start teaching PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under-slide, aka "Pull, Brake, Up-Slide") belay instead of the old fashioned SSS (Slip, Slap, Slide) belay in this year's basic course. • Belay (manage the rope) such that a brake hand is maintained on the rope at all times. The hand transition is securely in the braking position, and it’s hard to imagine the belayer losing control if the climber were to fall while the hand was sliding. Switching hands on th Sep 12, 2018 · Learn how to belay a lead climber with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association. Jun 19, 2023 · PBUS. They are in place to ensure you know the safety procedures so you and those you climb with have an enjoyable and PBUS. For lead belaying, the belayer should slide the brake hand back, sequestering a quantity of slack to be given to the leader. Jan 16, 2020 · Belaying is arguably the most important skill in climbing so learning how to belay— and how to belay well— is essential! You’ll need to be able to demonstrate your ability to safely and effectively: Tie in correctly with a figure-8 follow-through knot backed up with a safety knot. If you choose a belay course, usually a rope, harness, helmet (if climbing outside), locking carabiner, belay device and rock sneakers are provided or available for lease. Demonstrate your mastery of belaying techniques and equipment usage. How Risky or Not Risky is to Tunnel Brake Hand Up when you are taking Slack during Lead Belay?I have seen many arguing about this, so decided to do these exp Jan 19, 2016 · If you are an experienced climber and know the PBUS belay method, then we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. The GOAT Belay training class is a great way to learn how to be an independent climber in our community. Which stands for pull, brake, under and slide. Shop for Belay and Rappel Devices at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Belay with the PBUS Technique. Equipped with an ergonomic handle, providing easy control for a smooth and comfortable descent for the climber. There are many other belay devices apart from those mentioned here. Climbing Magazine is producing a series of How To videos in 2012 to demonstrate a number of skills and techniques. I use PBUS, and as the blog discusses, it's becoming almost universal now to teach beginners PBUS. Belay Technique - PBUS or Bust! The following are the standard motions we require at LCC for safe belay technique. May 6, 2012 · PBUS stands for “Pull, Brake, Under, Slide” and the major difference is that the brake hand is UNDER the belay device in its resting position thus the device is always locked and ready to catch a fall, unless you are pulling rope. The second person stands facing the primary belayer and pulls hand over hand on the rope (essentially pulling away from the primary belayer, through the GriGri). SUNY Cortland uses the PBUS belay method. While this video covers in deta Correctly set up an ATC or Grigri belay device. Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (CMRCA) is a leading provider of rock climbing, caving, leadership development and experiential education in Thailand. I like that I can keep the belay super tight, stay right under the clip, and never shortrope my climber. Other Belay Devices. " Tentative Itinerary Demonstrate PBUS (pull, brake, under, slide) belay technique Approved belay devices: any Assisted Brake device (GriGri, Pilot, Mega Jul, etc…) or Tubular device (ATC, Reverso, etc…) Lead Climbing Expectations A definition for the term “belay” Explain some foundational principles of good belay technique; Review the recommended method of belaying; Decipher PBUS belay technique; Trainer tips that help improve belayer’s skills; Additional Resources. belmwmctopmkwpjkbmaefstmxopcloyysyfgumipkgdecjkqhjbgrfrfhjcrvsqvftyvdhjc