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Open hand vs half crimp vs full crimp weight I think experienced folk would agree you want your spread to be kind of close between open 4 open 3 and half crimp. Jan 4, 2024 · Half Crimp or Open-Hand Crimp. If your open hand strength is that weak, open hand grips would be beneficial to train. Full Crimp. The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. Sep 19, 2024 · Research shows that larger edge sizes, up to 30mm, help increase peak vertical forces, with an athlete's grip style often self-selecting between open-hand and half-crimp positions. Typically training half crimp will keep this spread tight. Full crimp. Half Crimp vs. Sep 11, 2023 · Open Hand vs. The downside to favoring the half crimp (and the full crimp) over an open-hand grip is that the crimp position puts more pressure on your pulleys and tendons. It really depends on your application. If you’re doing 5 sets of hangs, maybe do 2 open hand and 3 half crimp, changing the weight to whatever you need it to be. Closed Crimp vs. (d) shows the difference between half-crimp and open finger position for the non-dominant hand. In a half crimp, the index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle. Jun 3, 2025 · Comparison of self-estimated and measured force values for (a) the difference between dominant and non-dominant hand in open finger position, (b) the difference between dominant and non-dominant hand in the half-crimp finger position, (c) the difference between half-crimp and open finger position for the dominant hand and (d) the difference Oct 15, 2021 · The half crimp position and full crimp position are nearly identical with one key difference. Jan 19, 2021 · Four-fingers Open-hand. The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. Jul 13, 2021 · So, when training on a hangboard, you’ll usually start by holding a static position, the “dead hang”, with different hand positions like full-crimp, half-crimp and open hand. In an open hand crimp, the fingers will be laying flat and ergonomically. Male advanced climbers overestimated their strength in the half-crimp position compared to the open hand by 11. Then I started doing half crimp hangboarding. While many have become injured while full-crimping, overuse and not listening to their body are likely the causes. Crimping can help for far lock offs on edges. 09, p = 0. 0061, d = 0. Both involve gripping with your fingertips and locking your finger joints. Also, look at the joint angles of all your fingers. Open hand is often necessary for dynamic motion and compression. Significant results were not observed for either the t-test or the two-way ANOVA. With half crimp and the thumb just flexing in air, I have to actively fight to keep my hand from opening up. When training the full-crimp position, a 20mm edge is most effective. 8% (t(19) = 3. At the same time if I ever had to full crimp it would A) feel weak and B) feel super dodgy. You should continue to train both. By leveraging your fingers into a position that squares your fingertips with a hold, the half crimp puts your hand in a position that makes even smallish edges feel quite secure. The four-fingers open-hand position is an excellent compromise between efficiency and power. Sep 22, 2022 · From a biomechanics perspective, half crimp will be weaker than full crimp or drag because full crimp includes direct force from the thumb and open includes passive tension/friction over the edge. We practice half crimp to let our thumbs work independently on pinches, slopers and thumb catches AND as a less injury than full crimping all the time. In both the half crimp grip and full crimp grip, your index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky grip the rock surface, and your fingers lock at the second joint. Avoiding certain grips might actually lead to increased vulnerability. com Feb 2, 2025 · Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. For beginners, it is recommended to do 2-3 sessions a week and do 10 sets of five hangs on a variety of holds with an open hand position. You need all angles of open hand to crimp to be a full climber. Working on both is key. When to Use Half crimp vs. The openness of a crimp grip refers to where our thumb is while crimping, and the angle our fingers and knuckles make while we crimp. I typically recommend using a half-crimp or slightly obtuse half-crimp grip for training, as Some people may say open hand is better because it requires less energy, others may say the half crimp is better because you can generate more force. Jun 4, 2025 · There are actually three different types of grips we can use when crimping: open hand grip, half crimp grip, and full crimp grip. Your fingers don't have the same engagement in the rung. I could hang 30+ kg on an 14 mm edge in the open hand position (4 fingers open). As a result I would only full crimp if I really had to and otherwise try to pinch a lot of stuff or just open hand it. Is this large strength disparity between half & full crimp common among most climbers? I did some searching on the sub, and if anything it seems most people are stronger in open or half crimp than full crimp. It’s best for most flat and incut edges, especially if the edges are larger, and can even be deployed on slopers and sloping edges. The position is defined extended pointer and pinky fingers while the middle two fingers rest in the half-crimped position. May 1, 2024 · Full-Crimp: Many climbers see full-crimping as a tool for injury. 75). . I have been climbing for close to two years (3 times a week for one year) and have always just used open hand on crimps. Jede dieser Griffvarianten fühlt sich anders an und im Eifer des Gefechtes benutzen Boulderer:innen die Begriffe oftmals etwas salopp. See full list on climbing. To perform a full-crimp, perform a half-crimp, and then wrap the thumb on top of the index finger. Damit wir im Folgenden aber Klarheit gegenüber den Techniken schaffen, findest du hier die offizielle Definition. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut ledges with a recess for better finger traction. qkub gtx ddt lquj xtihc pvjvroyu dwlx fge hfpkp awmbk |
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