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Best atc belay device reddit. The grigri is over hyped.

Best atc belay device reddit If you already own an ATC just learn how to use it, it’s a fine device. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. But the mechanics are the same. Always belayed with an ATC or an eight. com Sep 21, 2023 路 Many people still belay with non-assisted braking devices like the ATC-XP. . I like using the ATC (Reverso 4) for a number of reasons, I like having a free hand when I'm lowering so that I can take out any kinks or twists in the rope as they get close to the belay device, this results in an ultra-smooth lower. I don't like using a Grigri for follower belay because the rope backfeeds easily, especially on steep pitches. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay Feb 12, 2024 路 The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a device we commend for being able to do it all. The Mega Jul is best for rappelling, however overall for a singular device to take outside, the Mega Jul is best. I like to think I'm skilled with all of them. With the grigri you have to use both hands to lower, one on the device, and one on the rope. Top rope is where a GriGri really stands out. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. The operation is similar to a traditional ATC and it's light, with a brake assist for lead belaying. It’s worth repeating that these are all capable belay devices. A coworker is just getting into climbing. 5mm ropes. I find myself reaching for the Grigri when i know my friends are going to top-dog 5. I don't own any climbing gear past harness, shoes, chalk, & ATC. If bringing the Grigri, leader gets a Grigri belay and follower gets an ATC auto-blocking plaquette belay. Honestly I wouldn’t climb with someone who refuses to use one. I much prefer if my partner has an assisted braking device. All my climbing partners use one so it’s not really an issue that comes up. Yes. You can use it for a double rope rappel, and belay one or two climbers following. I try to pick the device depending on what I'm doing. The ATC-Guide offers smooth handling while you climb with its lightweight and easy-to-use construction. When I teach people to belay I always have them learn on an ATC as I’ve seen too many climbers depending on the assisted braking of other devices, leading them to do unsafe things like take their hands off the brake strand without tying off the belay. She passed the belay test, we climbed a night using an ATC, but in getting to know you conversation, I discovered she began having seizures last year, but hasn't had one in over a year. The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device. ATC. I'm in the market for a new belay device. Its more the matter off belaying in guide mode. By that I mean, I’m fine with someone who uses an ATC(they have their valid use cases such as twin ropes/ rappels etc- even then there is the mega jul and smart alpine), but if they get all Having said that, when my partners asked me to use a safer device, I did switch to the Jul, as it has assisted breaking while still letting me belay with a relatively similar technique as the atc, and making my climbers feel comfortable is first priority I love using some sort of ATC for lead belay personally. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. when used correctly an ATC is a time-tested, effective device. Keep reading to learn about the Grigri vs. The ATC-XP is relegated to the gym or as a rap device when I TR solo. Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. Multpitch: 1X Grigri + 1X ATC, or 2X ATC, depending on the situation. Otherwise just get an Grigri and quit sucking the dicks of the safety brigade. The grigri is over hyped. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. As NOsquid said, its so much smoother Edelrid Mega Jul. Apr 27, 2021 路 Here are the best belay devices: Petzl GriGri 2; Black Diamond ATC-Guide; Edelrid Mega Jul; Petzl GriGri + Petzl Reverso; Black Diamond ATC-XP; How to Choose the Best Belay Device for Your Needs. However, the climbing world is slowly phasing out this style of belay device, much like figure-8 belay devices. A new small rope will always be fast, those are treated to be more durable so they’re a bit shiny? Anyway it’ll just lower really fast. I own an ATC-XP, ATC-Guide, springless Sticht plate, GriGri, CT-Alpine Up, a chain link and various homemade belay devices. Both belay devices should be fine over time you’ll get used to the belay difference… If you really want it to feel different you could try an ATC Alpine… but their intended use is 8. If you have any of them, there’s no need to throw it away for something else. Aug 26, 2021 路 The base ATC is the most straightforward (you can’t load it backwards like the Guide since there are no ridges for the brake side), and it is cheaper than the Guide, though both are on the cheaper end for belay devices. If you don't like the brake assist on rappel like some people, you can flip it, and it'll act like a regular ATC. This well-rounded belay device doubles as a rappel device, and its capacity makes it our best bet for multi-pitch climbing. In choosing between these devices, consider how much weight/price budgets and your intended use for the device. I also sometimes use non-assisted tube device (Reverso, ATC, etc) or a Munter / Super Munter hitch, but with an auto-block ("third hand") friction hitch (Prussik) on the brake strand to my leg loop. If we do our job correctly, by the end of this article, you’ll know which belay device is best for you. 6 at the gym a dozen times or for use as a backup self belay device to quickly switch over to rappel. My fisrt belay device was an ATC that looked like a coin. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Dec 22, 2022 路 However, which device is best for you is much less clear. Does somebody remember those ones? (been 14 years now) :) It didnt came with that litle steel cable that the "new" ones now have. I can top rope with a braking device, lead belay, and rappel with two strands from a singular device You’re not at a disadvantage per se. I like my GriGri for more casual climbing, but the ATC style devices are more versatile and lightweight. They're super easy to learn, and use mostly the same "muscle memory" movements as any regular tube device. elbdfs jotf emiw oquz sjuc hksws rqyp yktnhs ixc gmwbpa

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