Dmm offset nuts review Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. Colour coded for easy size identification. Light yet robust and the raw ally faces are defo confidence inspiring… I use them a lot in rattly nut placements or for the 1st piece off the ground to prevent/reduce the ‘un zipping’ effect. Irregular is better. Sustainability & Recyclability. DMM; Gear; Trad Climbing; Review; 4. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango. DMM Offset Nut 9, 37g; DMM Offset Nut 8, 29g; DMM Offset Nut 7, 27g; TOTAL: 193 g. There are various types of nuts available by many brands in all sorts of colours, shapes and sizes. This shape allows the nuts to fit snugly into flared cracks and irregularities, providing excellent security. While they are similar in design to most other curve nuts, what sets them apart are their taller heads that offer more surface area, a more aggressive taper, more user friendly larger sizes, and a color scheme that matches all other Wild Country and DMM nuts. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. Reasoning: I like the half nuts but I prioritize efficiency over style, and thus rarely place nuts. Which makes the whole passive protection part of the Trad Rack™ 1. Description. 10 Positive, 0 Mixed & 0 Negative from 10 Reviews. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. DMM Alloy Offset Set 7 - 11. The cable kinks easily because it is fixed in the head, which combined with the offset design keeps the nut from rotating freely when yanked upward. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack. Offset models are also generally harder to clean because they are asymmetric - they don't want to rotate upwards Moved Permanently. Passive protection can be placed either side or face on, doubling the number of cracks any single piece can protect. Oct 19, 2021 · Micro Offset $$$ 5. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. As a massive fan of offset nuts and cams I’ve hoped that DMM would produce their own. Related Searches. DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. Pros: Work where standard nuts or cams just don’t, useful in flared cracks, secondary axis taper good for more traditional placements, works great in more textured rock Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a DMM Alloy Offset Nuts. Jan 7, 2019 · The Black Diamond Offset Micro is more expensive than most aluminum options, but they check out pretty much in line with, or slightly less expensive than, most other brass models. 5 peaks Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. I have a set of small dmm offsets I got on sale and they’ve proven handy but not much more than regular nuts. The fact that Wallnuts share the same color scheme as the rest of the Wild Country and DMM Offset Nut makes adding pieces to your rack a breeze. 3 3 star. Oct 25, 2024 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. And I really love them nuts. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. Write Your Own Review. STOP PRESS: And DMM have delivered. 0: Read Review: DMM Wallnuts: 11: Curved $ 4. Offset nuts generally are an ideal addition to any rack, with the tapered design making them ideal for tapered cracks (common in the UK). I think it should be their next thing to do. I do like the Camalots larger than#1 though Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha DMM Offsets Set 7 - 11 - Klemmkeile mit einzigartiger Form und vielseitigen Klemmeigenschaften DMM Alloy Offset Set 7 - 11. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Jan 12, 2018 · The design behind DMM's offset nuts was invented by Hugh Banner back when HB Wales still existed. Sep 30, 2011 · Hmm, that might be perfect for one of these new Black Diamond Offset Nuts I was carrying … If you don’t have offset nuts on your rack, you haven’t really lived. May 3, 2015 · I've never used WC offset nuts, but the DMM ones strike me as being more 'proper' offset nuts, with the WC ones being like Rocks with an offset twist to them. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. I was converted several years ago when I checked out the new-at-the-time DMM Offsets, which were a reinvention of the popular, but out of production, HB’s. . If I can find some way to do this, and hopefully if DMM can stop the slippage in future batches, then my opinion will go back to Offsets being amongst the best nuts around but not, sadly, until then. 5 peaks for not covering a few more larger sizes for scrambling, but I am nitpicking. Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. In 1981 the company employed just 4 people and now thirty years later we are an important employer in this area with just over 150 men and women on DMM Alloy Offset $ 16. out of 10. Pros: Work where standard nuts or cams just don’t, useful in flared cracks, secondary axis taper good for more traditional placements, works great in more textured rock Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. But I personally do carry offset nuts on my climbing rack. As you can see in the photo, offset nuts are larger on one end than they are on another. Features. I’m climbing in red rock These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts for Sale, Reviews, Deals and Guides. The offsets seem to be the best bang for the buck when balancing faff factor, ease of use, and cost. De nuts hebben verschillende kleuren voor snelle identificatie van de maten. How do you rate this product? * 1 1 star. DMM HB Alloy Offset Stopper Set - Sizes 7-11 May 3, 2015 · I've never used WC offset nuts, but the DMM ones strike me as being more 'proper' offset nuts, with the WC ones being like Rocks with an offset twist to them. Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. Instantly I was De DMM Alloy Offset Nuts is een set van 5 nuts van de maten 7 tot en met 11. I guess it really depends on the type of climbing you do. Since they are more specialized nuts, offset nuts do cost a bit more. 4 4 star. They are also the least expensive offset nut, and our review team thinks they're a screaming deal at half the cost of the DMM HB Brass Offsets. The DMM Offset Nuts offer placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. Retail Price: $23. The bright color coding lets us easily find the size we need, while the stiff wires give us optimal control for a full-reach placement. DMM Alloy Offsets for trad climbing Asymmetrical offset nuts for rock protection Durable alloy offset stoppers for climbers Lightweight offset nuts for thin cracks Color-coded DMM Alloy Offsets for easy use Grooved face design for secure placements Strong 12kN strength DMM offset nuts Ideal offset protection for various terrains Unique tapered design for challenging routes DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr Versatile crack protection Offset nuts are designed to fit in a wider variety of crack placements than traditional chocks or small cams. Anything larger than the big blue offset should be a 0. This has regularly been cited by users as a standout feature. And those nuts are superlight. Price: £59. 95 Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. The DMM protection range is colour coded for quick and easy size selection. With a 12kN strength rating, they are durable and lightweight, featuring recessed wires to reduce wear and weight-saving holes in larger sizes. Available individually or as a set of 5. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. 95. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Aug 9, 2020 · Maybe someday DMM will update the Alloy Offset with 4 tapered curvy shapes and lighter design. Shop for climbing nuts from leading brands including DMM, Metolius and Wild Country from our collection below Are you looking for the top best dmm offset nuts 2024? We’ll show you helpful reviews and comparisons, so it’s easy to choose. Jan 27, 2018 · But where you climb is a big factor too. Lightweight aluminum design keeps weight down, and color coded heads make it easy to grab the right size when you're on the sharp end. Worth the wait as these are such a well thought out addition. Micro protection for small offset cracks Peenuts have the same asymmetrical taper as Alloy Offsets, allowing them to protect flared and irregular shaped cracks more effectively than symmetrical nuts. De asymmetrische nuts zitten aan een staalkabel en maken stabiele plaasing in scheuren in beide richtingen mogelijk. Americans can't place nuts but only plug cams Yeap; if you watch folks here climb you're going to see 90% cam placements and at most 10% nut placements even at older crags that were first freed on passive gear. Apr 13, 2025 · Do you need offset nuts? Offset climbing nuts make an excellent complement to a rack of nuts. Their large surface area helps dissipate forces, making them suitable for protecting fragile rock. In a world where there are endless choices and overwhelming amounts of information, it can be difficult to know which dmm offset nuts is the best for you. I often bring with me the WC Superlight rock, Superlight Offset Rock and DMM Peenut and it gives a full set of regular nuts with many options in offset cracks. A couple thoughts on the choice: I have and *love* the DMM alloy offsets. 4. 10. Dec 5, 2008 · Buy the DMM Offset Nuts from Backcountry. When he died and the company shut down in 2005, climbers scrambled to find offset nuts. Torque Nuts: DMM Torque Nut 4, 144g; DMM Torque Nut 3, 100g; DMM Torque Nut 2, 72g; DMM Torque Nut 1, 55g; TOTAL: 371 g; And the DMM Nutbuster is 54g. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts HB Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Have basically narrowed things down to either the DMM HB Offsets or the DMM IMPs. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all-season I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. 5 cam or larger, so why carry a nut that large? Dec 13, 2009 · If you are a beginner these nuts seat well and are less prone to popping out. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally Jan 4, 2019 · DMM because BD just got into the offset nuts game to just take a slice of the market but just added a biner to undercut the price. 5 5 star. This helps them make the most of marginal placements. May 9, 2024 · The Metolius Ultralight Curved Nuts certainly provide solid placements, thanks to their curved shape. The document has moved here. Sonderpreis! Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. I don’t think they are totally necessary, especially if you buy a full rack of the DMM Wallnuts. Crafted from 6061-T6 aluminium, these nuts are robust and durable. FROM Simon Marsh at DMM 24th June 2008. Dec 13, 2009 · Superlight Rocks are among the lightest nuts on the market and they have color-coded heads that match all other Wild Country and DMM units. Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Feb 6, 2018 · If regular nuts and most hexes are offset when placed in their sideways position, why are offset nuts so popular and even sold? For example: Is the angle significantly different between DMM Wallnuts in their sideways position and DMM HB Alloy Offsets that they work for different placements? Related Searches. With so many products on the market, it’s hard to know A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Simon Marsh and Chris Rowlands of DMM Jan 6, 2020 · Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. 2 2 star. Trango offset nuts for trad climbing Lightweight aluminum climbing nuts Best offset nuts for rock climbing Durable offset nuts for crack placements Color coded offset nuts for easy selection Offset nuts with 7kN strength rating Aluminum climbing nuts for beginners Offset nut sizes for various crack widths Trango climbing gear for outdoor adventures High-quality offset nuts These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. Alloy Offsets provide reliable protection in irregular and flared cracks where standard nuts fail. Review DMM Offset Nut Review. That said, they are among the most difficult to clean. If money isn't an Nov 23, 2021 · 3: half nuts. Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. 99 each, but available for less in the UK. DMM ALLOY OFFSET FEATURES: Heat-treated alloy for maximum bite; Offset profile; Size colour coded anodizing (corresponds to other DMM nuts) Gold size 7 -31g; Blue size 8 - 34g; Red size 9 - 38g; Grey size 10 - 43g; Light Blue size 11 - 55g; Recessed wires - reduces abrasion to wires; Strength- all sizes- rated to 12kN Jan 20, 2010 · Rocks are among the better priced nuts in this review, both independently and as a set. Occasionally I climbed with friends who had a set, and they always seemed to work really well. The DMM Offset Nut Set 7-11 is a full set of the Offset range, which offers placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a May 8, 2023 · The DMM Alloy Offset Nuts Gear Review – A brilliant range of offset nuts to add to your Trad climbing rack. Apparently a lot of placements are a little bit Rock shaped due to that being the most commonly used nut (perhaps more so in the past than now), which may affect your choice, but DMM Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. Dislikes. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. BD hasn't really come up with any innovation for years, I bet they just go to the same factory that makes nuts and slap their logo on them. Using the original HB Wales design, DMM began reproducing them. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Related Searches. Score *Let us know your thoughts When the best placement is in a flaring crack or a pin scar, we reach for DMM's Alloy Offset Set #7-11. Feb 7, 2021 · Looking to round out my rack with some small brass nuts. The other clear option available when considering Offsets is, of course, the DMM Offsets which come in a set of 5 in the 7-11 sizes (slightly larger sizes than the Wild Country option). 8: Read Review: Metolius Curve Nuts Offset nuts aren’t as popular as ‘regular’ nuts and won **Alloy Offset Sets** - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. Brass nuts are made from a special blend of brass and silicone that is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist pulling through them. When i go to squamish i carry a lot more regular nuts and only a few small offsets (the yellow dmm is magic) but at index i barely carry regular nuts. Hoping that someone can help make my mind up. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season crack protection. DMM Nov 17, 2011 · Founded in 1981 as Moor house Engineering in Bethesda, soon to become DMM and move to more suitable premises in Llanberis in 1986, the company celebrates 30 years of manufacturing this year in 2011. com I’d always heard how awesome the old HB Offset nuts were, especially for flaring placements, but after the company went out of business, they were a lot harder to find. All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. i feel the surface area and horseshoe shape off the dmm really makes them grab, they are the most confidence inspiring nuts. This Oct 9, 2015 · In fact I have started leaving my doubled nuts in the bag and taking the set of nuts coupled with the set of offsets instead. We have great value for money sets for entry level beginners and a high end, performance range for where every gram counts. DMM HB Alloy Offset Stopper Set - Sizes 7-11 Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts for trad climbing Micro nuts for secure placements in flared cracks Asymmetrical tapered heads for irregular crack fitting Thicker wires for increased strength and durability Color-coded sizes for easy identification Lightweight design for minimal rack weight Brass and silicone construction for optimal performance Versatile placement range for various The DMM Alloy Offset Nuts are made with a carefully considered head geometry so that they fit securely into placements where cams or regular nuts would be unstable, flared cracks and peg scars are good examples. Apparently a lot of placements are a little bit Rock shaped due to that being the most commonly used nut (perhaps more so in the past than now), which may affect your choice, but DMM May 8, 2023 · The DMM Alloy Offset Nuts Gear Review – A brilliant range of offset nuts to add to your Trad climbing rack. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. 046 g. ywegxerwkmoyjetqqovognmathrnlmvzwinaoszgzzgrqobqxwirtiwclajgyjyrgsehlahdrvhai